Friday, February 29, 2008

#68 Loxton Zinfandel


From one of my favorite producers in Sonoma Chris Loxton, comes a reprieve from a series of unfortunate bottles (Hey! a real cork!). This Zinfandel is far more subtle than most you come across these days. Weighing in at 14.3% ABV this wine brings back a flood of aromas from Loxton Cellars. I have finally found a bottle to settle in with for the evening.

This 2005 is a beautifully crafted wine, elegant and with great structure. I can't remember how much this wine will run you but I think it must be in the $25 area. If you find yourself in Sonoma you absolutely would be doing yourself a huge favor by dropping in on Loxton. You have my personal guarantee!

#67 Barbera from Sartirano

If you read the previous post you noticed I closed with "so let's not complain." So I won't and I will rapidly move along to the next bottle of the evening and leave the dolcetto alone. This bottle was acquired at a wine tasting here this summer. We stay in Piedmont but move over to a more distinguished grape.... Barbera.

I have had many wonderful Barberas over the years. The best, Barbara di Asti are well rounded enjoyable wines with some aging potential. The lesser bottles can be insipid plonk. This one falls in the middle but it was a door prize so.... I wont complain.

#66 Dolcetto by Veglio

Friday night is pizza night. (well its a leap year so its okay). The last red varietal from my recent purchase is a Dolcetto. I hate to continue using other's words to describe wines but once again, the wiki hits it right on the nose.

Dolcetto is a black wine grape variety widely grown in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy. The name means "little sweet one," though it is nearly always a dry wine. Dolcetto wines can be tannic and fruit driven with moderate levels of acidity. They are typically meant to be consumed one to two years after release.

That is precisely what we have here. Extremely dry with just the slightest hint of fruit. It is drinkable but it doesn't have much structure. Hey but its $8 so lets not complain.

#65 Xarel-Lo

A long week has passed and its time for a Friday afternoon reward. First I would like to award this wine the title of "Coolest name so far". Xarel-Lo is a Spanish grape and one of the 3 most common grapes you bubbly fans will find in Cava the generally excellent version of France's Champagne.

Now while I really do enjoy trying this varietal unblended and in non-bubbly form. I can see that it is suited to blending. It has a fruity presence on the front palate but leaves the back of your throat high and dry. For $9.50 its probably not one that I would buy in this form again but I am quite happy to have had the chance to try it and certainly look forward to my next bottle of Cava perhaps from Albet i Noya.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

#64 Xinomavro from Greece

The first bottled wine available in Greece and the benchmark among Greek red wines, Naoussa Boutari has won many awards over the last 50 years both in Greece and internationally.
REGION: Naoussa.
VARIETY: Xinomavro.
TYPE: Red, dry.
AGING: Aged one year in French oak barrels.
CHARACTERISTICS: A classic Naoussa wine. Deep red in colour, with a strong personality. It gives off a rich bouquet of ripe red fruit that comes with aging (cinnamon, wood). Full-bodied, well- balanced, with good structure and soft tannins in its finish.
FOOD PAIRING: Served with red meat, sauces and yellow cheeses.

I am really enjoying this wine. Very dry and almost amber in color. It has the feel of a well aged bottle but this is only a 2004. It's $11.50 and I would serve it with any nice Greek meat dish. I will certainly buy this one again.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

#63 Greek Roditis

Almost 2/3rds done with the quest and my white wine palate is in agony. Here we find another bottle from the Allegro group in Greece. This one is a blend of Roditis and an earlier credited Moschofilero.

I won't bore you with the grizzly details. It's a white wine that gets a little funky when it warms up. Serve it ice cold with seafood and drink your $9 good bye.

#62 MollyDooker Verdelho

In his book Varietal Wines, James Halliday says

"The success of Verdelho as a table wine in Australia is an extraordinary phenomenon without any obvious explanation"

At first sip this wine shows vanilla sweet fruit then quickly turns to heavy acidity. Its a $20 wine with 15% ABV and as an amateur wine taster I am going to call this one clumsy and I completely disagree with reviews calling this a refreshing wine. There is a reason this grape is used to make Madeira. Chardonnay fear not, Verdelho isn't going to unseat you any time soon.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

#61 Semillon from Torbreck

The previous red wasn't going to cut it with dinner so I decided to go with a Semillon from a big name in Australian wines, Torbreck.

Here we have a crisp white with a sauvignon blanc nose and a chardonnay mouth feel. For $13 we get structure and character. Its a very nice and I must say, slightly sophisticated wine. Well done!

#60 a Schales Dornfelder "Classic"

Tonight's dinner, celebrating the end of winter (allow me this delusion) is roast chicken with whole grain rice and green beans. Organic shallots and pancetta accent the whole lot. Its a big feel good meal that begs for a hearty red.

With great trepidation I reach for a German varietal called Dornfelder. Its got a label that says beer and a nose that warns "sweet." Light on acidity but with firm tannins and yep, sweet fruit this is an easily approachable wine. It has a bit too much of that prune on the finish though for me. Pair this $10 bottle with a big German meal.... mmmm bratwurst.....

Monday, February 25, 2008

#59 Verdejo from Bodegas Cerrosol

Another lovely wine from Northwest Spain and another steal at $8 a bottle. This area of Spain has been an absolute hot spot in the wine quest. I am looking forward to finishing this marathon and being able to further explore this region's wines. A number of websites proclaim verdejo as "Arguably Spain's finest white grape variety." If this bottle is an indication then I must agree.

Like the Albarino we had earlier in the quest this one reminds me of sauvignon blanc but with a few important distinctions. This bottle, while having plenty of acidity doesn't go over the top like many recent sauv blancs I have tried. Also, this wine is rounder and creamier with a balanced almost lush finish. I had no problem drinking a few glasses of this on an empty stomach while preparing dinner.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

#58 Prieto Picudo from Dominio Dostares

One of my favorite wine shops in the city headlined this grape in their latest newsletter. A 100% Prieto Picudo from Dominio Dostares. For $13 its a great deal. I will pass along kudos to the Wine Discount Center for finding this wine and will let them tell you about it....

"Here is a rare treat from a rare grape variety. This is 100% Prieto Picudo. Only a few hundred acres remain of this rare indigenous red varietal. In 2004 Dominio Dostares purchased 75% of the remaining vines, many of which are in excess of 100 years old. For years the grapes had been used to produce a high quality Rosé. Dominio Dostares, however, realized the potential beauty and elegance of this grape and came up with the 2005 Estay. Matured for six months in French oak, it has a deep, deep purple color with aromas of violet, red berries, pepper and spice. This is a complete wine that has wonderful juicy red berry flavors, plenty of spice, some oak nuances, good acid balance and smooth tannins. Perfect for red meat, chicken or hearty salads."

Thursday, February 21, 2008

#57 Montepulciano from Canaletto

Tonight's bottle is an Italian red called Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. I have to admit I did a double take when I saw the $7 price tag. I can't possibly pass up such an inexpensive bottle of a famous grape so in the cart it went.

Not really expecting much I am delighted to find that it is very drinkable. There isn't a whole lot of structure but there is a nice sour cherry fruit without any aggressive tannins. Canaletto did a nice job with this simple wine. How they can make money selling it to me in Chicago for $7 I just don't understand.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

#56 Viognier from Yalumba

I had to take a break from the quest but am slowly working back into the routine. Shockingly it took 56 wines to get to an Australian wine. My first bottle back is a Viognier from Australia's Yalumba. I have enjoyed quite a few of their reds so I decided to give this $10 bottle the nod.

Normally I don't pay too much attention to the tasting notes on wine bottles but I am going to reprint this one here as it really hit the nail on the head. "Golden in colour, the Yalumba Viognier enchants with its heady perfume of lemon, honeysuckle and hints of spice. The palate is rich, luscious and silky with tropical fruits, citrus and lychee flavours." This is one of Yalumba's "Y Series" focusing on varietals. I will be looking for more of these.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

#55 Uva di Troia

We are all friends here right? This one is an Uva di Trioa. The nose hints at shiraz but this baby must have been aged in particle board boxes and blended with pine chips. It tastes like the inside of an Ikea bookshelf. I tried it a few time with and without food over a few hours and it amazingly just got worse. $13 poorly spent but at least it is #55 (on more than one list). Time for a beer.

Monday, February 11, 2008

#54 Falanghina from Feudi

Feudi Di San Gregorio makes a wide range of wines. Founded in 1986 these guys have made a serious effort to modernize production and utilize ancient grape varietals. I have been lucky enough to try many of their wines and so far I haven't been disappointed.

Tonight we decided to prepare the handmade pasta we made when Anne and Kirk last visited. The pasta was still perfect. (drying experiment successful). So I grab a bottle thinking it was a red and instead was faced with yet another white. This time a Falanghina. Prepared to be let down I pour a glass. Thankfully its a full bodied complex wine with solid fruit and strong acidity. A huge relief from the insipid plonk I have run into recently. At $15 its a steal relative to many in this price range.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

#53 Arneis from Healdsburg CA

Shudder, my taste buds needed a reprieve from the previous bottle so I sort through the dwindling varietals remaining in my fridge and find an Arneis from Seghesio in Healdsburg California. Seghesio generally delivers a consistent product and they are known for growing Italian varietals. (Though I would be remiss if i didn't point out that of all the wineries in all the places in all the world I have been to... they were the most condescending and brutish.) I bought this bottle only because its hard to find as a single varietal as it is most often used as a blending grape to soften other wines.

And that pretty much defines this wine. Extremely pale, lightly sweet and somewhat flabby. At $15 this is not a white wine to go out of your way for.

#52 Silvaner from Wagner Stempel

A weekend spent mostly preparing my 2007 taxes and analyzing a year past in grueling detail. It is finally Sunday evening and I have about 5 pounds of paperwork to send off to my CPA in the morning. Thank goodness that is over, for now anyway. Not many bottles left before I have to head over to Sam's for another mixed case.

Tonight's splurge is a $20 Terry Theise Silvaner. Theise is an excellent importer and his name on a bottle is usually a good sign. This one has a swift hint of sulfur which is replaced by a waft of rotten raw poultry. I would consider this a reisling lite. I have had more than a few disappointments from the retailer I purchased this from so I would like to blame storage but I am not sure that is fair.

Saturday, February 9, 2008

#51 Erbaluce De Caluso

Saturday night continues to roll along and since we have family over I can't help but keep the corks popping. Erbaluce is a simple white grape from the northwest of the northwest of Italy. The acidity lords over the fruit which makes it a challenging sell especially after the fruity portugieser we just finished. The grape is best used to make a sweet dessert wine. $15 is just too much for this one unfortunately.

#50 Portugieser in a big bottle

Wine #50 is a German Portugieser. This is a $15 one liter bottle of easy drinking pink. Its a 9.5% abv kool aid wine cooler without the bubbles. Serve it well chilled at a summer party and prepare to call the recycling guy in the morning.

#49 Aglianico Del Vulture!

Forty nine varietals came upon me pretty fast. Excited to get to fifty I grab for a bottle of Aglianico Del Vulture. This wine earns the "Vulture" extension due to the area in which it is grown . On your map you will find it near Italy's ankle in an area surrounding a large dormant volcano.

This wine stopped me in my tracks. I spent $10.50 on a bottle that tastes like a $40+ Barolo. First sip was a little rough around the edges but it was evident that this wine has class. Nice tannins and excellent fruit, it got better and better the longer it sat open. Twenty four hours later it is still vibrant. I think this a grape with some real aging potential and easily ranks as one of the best in this quest.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

#48 A Fer from Domaine Laurens

"100% Mansois. Deep and saturated purple color. Clear and direct aromas of crushed berries, sap, and wood smoke (not from oak barrels!). The wine is medium in body, and very smooth, with "sweet" flavors of brown spices and plum jam" reads the tasting notes. I am particularly attracted to the no oak part since the last bottle I had seemed to have been extracted from an oak tree.

"Marcillac is a tiny obscure appellation near Clairvaux in Aveyron comprising some eight growers. The wines here are made exclusively from the Mansois grape, otherwise known as Fer or Fer Servadou in Gaillac" reads the description.. compelling.

Sounds good! Lets see what Domaine Laurens has done here. This is an inky wine with a smoky nose.. neat. It's like a cabernet without the steroids, no fruit bomb here. Its dry, with subdued tannins and a finish that reintroduces you to that farmhouse smoke. This is one $12 bottle that will not go unfinished.


#47 Marsanne from La Forge Estate

Thursday night which means a new episode of Lost and of course a new bottle of wine. This one is an $8 bottle of marsanne from the Vin De Pays DOC in the south of France.

Loads of vanilla on the nose at first taste its indistinguishable from an oak laden chardonnay. Its pleasing and round but has a finish that is just a bit too warm and leaves you with the feeling that you finished a sour candy 5 minutes earlier. The bottle claims it will please the most demanding palate. I think it falls rather short of that.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

#46 Romorantin from Cour-Cheverny France

Speaking of obscure varietals so far this one takes the cake. Made in Cour-Cheverny France from a variety known as Romorantin. One source claims that this appellation was created exclusively for this grape. Additional sources talk about a 16th century king, a grape and a dream but I will save you the details.

Darker straw color and a little sharp on the nose. This vintage weighs in at a big 14.5% abv. The wine appears to have the tiniest of carbonation but it passes quickly. Lots of mineral and citrus sour and associated bright acidity give this wine a real zing. I would say that this $18 bottle is one of the more complex white wines I have had and I look forward to trying it again.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

#45 Greek Agiorgitiko

Needing a reprieve from the previous wine but not wanting to break the bank I grab a Greek bottle of Agiorgitiko. Zacharias Vineyards made this one for our tasting pleasure and at $8 a bottle its worth a shot.

This wine is made in the Nemea region of the Peloponnese in Greece. Agiorgitiko is one of the big commercial grapes in Greece. It appears that a good vintner is able to make this grape do just about anything. This one is a simple, slightly tannic dry red. For the price it is good. But I don't think it can hold its own against tonight's dinner of vinegared chicken.

#44 Castelao from Portugal

My delayed Big Game wine blogging got me thirsty and seeing how I had just used my "10% off one purchase" coupon to buy 2 cases of wine (with an additional case discount) there is plenty of wine around.

I haven't brushed up on my Portuguese and the JP Azeitao Quinta da Bacalhoa Terras do Sado website didn't clear things up for me anymore than the label did (Link is friendlier). This stubby container looks almost like a beer bottle and doesn't cost much more at $5.39! The primary grape is castelao at 70%. It is about what you would expect from a $5 bottle of wine. At first taste it seems a bargain but the dead fruit finish brings you back to reality. Upon further reflection the 15% syrah is likely responsible for all the flavor while this quote from the website " Sorry, the english section is under construction pending translated text. Thank you for your patients.." tells the real story.

#43 Malbec Port from Sonoma

The Grandest Game is winding to a close and the underdog giants are putting up a marvelous fight. This is the best champion deciding football game I have ever seen. Remarkably all of the wines served tonight have also been excellent. To wind down the evening, it is after all a school night, I dig into the port collection and find an already open bottle of a River Bend Winery Malbec port.

Malbec is most commonly found as a South American varietal and to me often seems to be pretty run of the mill plonk. But when you concentrate this already dark grape juice into thick viscous ambrosia things change dramatically. Sadly there was just enough here for a small glass each. My effort to finish the remaining wine was greeted by a glass full of rocky sediment. Unbowed... like the underdog Giants I just chewed through it.

#41 and #42 more excellent underdogs

The Penultimate Platter is well underway and the scrappy Giants are fiercely hanging on to their dreams. Sparing my dear readers from a horrible segue I will point out that we have another winery here making a great effort to preserve varietals that are falling under the steamroller that is the merlot/cabernet/shiraz. Emilio Bulfon is now carrying the mantle for these almost forgotten Friulian grapes.

The first bottle contains Piculìt Neri. It is a dry red weighing in at only 12.5% a.b.v. Perhaps it has a little of that green flavor and despite its low alcohol it has a pleasing warming feeling. Quite a nice wine actually. For the encore we open a Forgiarìn. This one is a bit bigger than its predecessor with a compelling smoky overtone. Either one of these wines could be drunk alone or with simple meals and they will only set you back about $18 each!

#40 A Graciano from California

A Lodi California winery absolutely blowing its Spanish counterparts out of the water. Graciano is rarely seen standing alone. It is usually blended into Rioja. Even rarer is to find it in the United States standing alone. And since we are watching the Big Game (my lawyers have advised me against using the superlative descriptor) it is decided that we should indeed give these underdogs a chance.

The winery in question is Bokisch. These guys only do organically grown Spanish varietals. This is a lush vanilla toned graciously embracing wine. Even now a few days later the bottle smells gorgeously of vanilla and anise. I'm not a fan of overpowering oak but this wine seemed to find the vanilla from somewhere else. Case production is small at 242 and at $25 its a bit more expensive than most in our challenge but I am going to run back and buy a couple more bottles.